In retrofits, tubing is attached to the underside of the first-floor subfloor, assuming there is access to it from a basement or crawl space. Radiant heat-a no-brainer if you’re building a new house-can be retrofitted to fit the floors of existing homes, too, although installation costs will be higher. Unfortunately, it’s far more costly to operate and therefore generally makes sense as a supplemental, not primary, heat source.
#Installing electric radiant floor heating install#
for materials but is often less expensive to install because of lower labor costs. Labor costs vary by the job and location.Įlectric radiant floor heating costs about $6 per sq. This excludes the heat source and assumes two zones (a 1000 sq. ft., according to the Radiant Floor Company. As a starting point, materials and mechanical equipment for installing hydronic radiant heat in a 2000 sq. The cost of retrofitting hydronic radiant flooring varies depending upon whether there is access to the subfloor and the extent to which flooring and ceilings must be torn out and reinstalled. In the long run, however, it will save money due to lower thermostat settings and higher efficiency. Costs of Radiant Floor Systemsįor new construction, a hydronic radiant floor system is likely to cost more than forced hot air (ducts and registers) or hydronic systems (baseboard radiators). And while radiant cooling systems will reduce air temperature, dehumidification may also be needed to make occupants feel cool. In addition, the tubing for radiant cooling is best run in the ceiling (not the floor, the better location for heating). A chiller or geothermal heat pump must be used to supply the cold water. While radiant cooling is possible, it’s typically not cost effective to install. With a conventional forced-air heating system, the same ducts that deliver hot air through ducts from the furnace can be used to introduce cool air from a central air conditioner. The only negative for radiant floor heating is that it’s not so easy to use for cooling. The panels are more expensive than materials used in some other systems, but they are more efficient and reduce the labor costs, too. Warmboard, for example, manufactures 4 x 8 radiant floor panels for new construction and 2 x 4 panels for remodeling that are lined with aluminum sheeting for even heat distribution. Installations have been simplified in recent years with the advent of subflooring that’s pre-fitted with tubing channels. Solar energy is a good heat source for radiant floors because solar thermal collectors are very efficient at supplying the lower water temperatures that such systems require. The growing popularity of solar heating has also caused builders and homeowners to give radiant floor heat a second look. Newer versions of PEX include an oxygen barrier. Tiny amounts of oxygen are able to penetrate the PEX lining, causing corrosion to metal components, such as cast iron boilers.
Early on, PEX was not without hiccups as well. With time, the tubing leaked and the systems were abandoned. This was not so with ‘50s- and ‘60s-vintage radiant systems that relied on copper tubing embedded in concrete. The growing popularity of PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) tubing during the past 15 to 20 years has made radiant floors easier to install and leak-free.
Batts of fiberglass insulation are installed under the mats so most of the heat goes up, not down. You will, of course, need access to the bays from a basement or crawl space. No mortar is required.ĭon’t want to pull up your existing flooring? Companies such as SunTouch make electric radiant pads that fit in joist bays under the subfloor. Just roll it out, tape it in place, cover with floating-type flooring, and make the electrical connections. One manufacturer, Thermosoft, makes pads that produce 31 BTUs per square foot. There are also radiant electric floor heating pads that can be installed under laminate and other floating floors, such as engineered hardwood. Ceramic or stone tile are popular finished floor choices.
The cables, which are often pre-attached to mats for ease of installation, are installed over the subfloor in a bed of thin-set mortar. Electric radiant heating systems are typically supplemental, not meant to be the sole heat source for a room.
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